Just Over the Brightman Bridge

While technically not in Fall River, Magoni’s is literally a stone’s throw from the end of the Brightman Bridge which connects Fall River to Somerset (better check to see if the bridge is open this week- it’s always an iffy thing). Fall Riverites have been chowing down for ages at the popular Italian food eatery. Naturally Italian food is the specialty but the seafood is pretty darn good, and the menu entree choices cover all the bases. The prices are reasonable too, and the portions are always generous.  I like the wait staff, some of whom have been there for eons.  The restaurant seems to cater to the “older set” and there are plenty silvery heads munching appreciatively. Keno, of which I know nothing- is some sort of gaming attraction which goes on all around the restaurant. I don’t pretend to understand it.  Something to do with numbers. Lottery tickets are prominently featured in the entry vestibule and can be bought from a vending machine.

The only complaint I have in summer months is the mildewy smell which knocks you in the nostrils upon entering.  We deduced it must be from the lobster tank.  After being inside for about 20 minutes, you become accustomed to the odor- still, it is a turnoff initially.  Try to get the back room if you can- the large main dining salon is noisy and crowded.  The main diningroom is also very drafty in winter months.  All that being said, the crowning glory of Magoni’s has got to be the little pillows of cinnamony goodness which arrive before the salad course.  It is a little odd having a dessert-like confection before the meal, but nobody complains.

I ordered the Italian Platter this time around.  Magoni’s red sauce is of the sweet-fennel variety.  My plate arrived with a large sweet sausage, one manicotti, a very large meatball, a veal cutlet (which screamed “frozen”) and a big side of ziti. I would have put this on a contrasting plate. The bright orange sauce on a bright orange plate was not too appealing.  Presentation is not a strong suit at Magoni’s- but abundanza is, and the feeling is “family style” so if you are looking for pretty fancy and Gourmet Magazine, this is not the place for you.

But the salad was crisp and cold, the bread basket full (although I had to beg for butter twice), the dressing was excellent, and the service was prompt and aimiable. I went home with a doggie bag and the price of the meal did not break the bank.  If you order a Margarita though- be prepared for the table salt rimming, which was just sodden and yucky.  All in all, not bad if you are going with a big crowd. I recommend the fish and chips and almost anything Italian. Four stars for those Cinnamon Pillow Things- they should sell those on the side for breakfast snacks!